An indispensable classic - Goodyear Welted
por klein Jack em Dec 27, 2022
GOODYEAR WELTED is a unique and extremely high level of shoe making technology. HECTOR MADEN has always insisted on expressing this most classic craft in a completely handmade way.
Upper leather、Toe Cap、 Back Counter、Lining Leather、Heel Cushion、Leather insole、Welt、Shank、Cork Filling、Leather Outsole、Leather Stack Heel、Inseam, Sole Stitching.
Handmade is handmade, machine is machine
Goodyear Welted includes Machine Goodyear Welted and Handmade Goodyear Welted. The biggest feature is the welt (Welt) sewing method, the effect of the machine and handmade is the same, and can meet the structural requirements of Goodyear.
Hector Maden, who has always been obsessed with handmade, insists that what is handmade is handmade, and what is machine is machine. Goodyear is all handmade, with its dedicated focus and handcrafted temperature, the beauty of handwork that cannot be erased.
1. Fully hand-made shoes, finely controlling the fit, is an important part of shoe shape shaping;
2. Fully hand-stitched welt, better waterproof ability, stronger shoe body, more convenient to replace the sole;
3. Fully manual outer sewing, the strength can be adjusted at any time, and the firmness is better;
4. Fully hand-crafted, independently created, difficult to copy;
Goodyear Welted- more than two hundred years of inheritance
Known all over the world for inventing vulcanized rubber, Charles Goodyear, known as the "Father of Rubber", was an American inventor in the 19th century. In 1871, his "Goodyear welt structure shoe-making technology" obtained a US patent recognized.
Before the advent of Goodyear machinery and equipment, the manual welt method became popular in shoemaking workshops large and small in the 19th century as a shoemaking process more suitable for harsh environments. Therefore, the most traditional Goodyear is absolutely handmade. The shoe body is connected through the welt, each part is independent of each other, but supports each other, and the welt seam method is brought into full play.
Hector Maden sticks to tradition and, therefore, has been using this "old and dumb" approach.
The advent of Goodyear Welt
After the traditional hand-made shoemaking technology is added to the Goodyear welt process, the upper and the sole are firmly clamped together, the anti-fruit is enhanced, and the shoe body has a stronger bearing capacity. The Goodyear welt seam method achieves all the previous combinations in appearance and functionality, and derives four typical seam methods from the original Falt Welt Goodyear seam method.
Strom Welt: The biggest difference is the welt. The folded welt is tighter and tighter, and the waterproof function is outstanding;
Barbour Welt: The waterproof effect is between Falt Welt and Strom Welt, often used in labor insurance shoes:
Reversed Welt: Hem strips are sewn together with mid-sole and out-sole separately;
Channel Welt: Rare thread embedding Goodyear. Grooves are made on the out-sole and the sutures are buried, and finally the grooves are sealed. The out-sole presents an extremely simple and delicate effect.